DREAMFIELD ENGLISH MASTIFFS
Dogs of Distinction
802-563-3275 home
802-498-4251 mobile
Mastiff Puppy Raising Tips
Even a small Mastiff is destined to be a large dog. This is something that must be taken into consideration when rearing it. As a puppy, your Mastiff should not be allowed to do anything that you would not wish your full grown Mastiff to do, such as laying on the couch. And because your puppy is going to be such a large dog, it is also a very, very good idea that it receive, at a minimum, basic obedience training. You DO NOT want a 200 lb. dog that won’t listen to you-this can lead to very obvious problems!
Puppy class is a wonderful place to start-the socialization is invaluable. Your dog is going to get A LOT of attention from strangers, human and dog. Occasional visits to a doggie day care are encouraged as well.
Mastiffs grow at such an astonishing rate that it is best NOT to force their growth with puppy food or vitamins. A few great supplements form your puppy are North American Kelp Meal, and NuVet and
NuJoint Plus from NuVet labs. Kelp is an amazing source of minerals, and the Ester-C in the NuJoint is a highly soluble vitamin C supplement that helps protect joints. You can work your puppy from 500mg a day to 2000mg a day. A good quality dog food is all that they require…a mastiff is going to get as large as it is going to be, genetically…allowing them to grow at their own pace will give them a more stable foundation once they get there. Many breeders recommend NOT feeding puppy chow due to the high protein content.We recommend a wheat, corn, and soy free food with protein/fat levels around 25/12. Your puppy has been fed 4Health ADULT food, which is a chicken protien based, high quality food available at Tractor Supply Co. and online. Costco’s Chicken and Vegetable formula is also an excellent choice. Other wonderful foods include Innova, California Naturals, Canidae, etc.
During growth periods your Mastiff puppy is subject to joint injury.You will need to be especially careful during these times to control excessive exercise. A puppy may play at his own rate, but should not be encouraged to take long walks, jump obstacles, orany other exercise that will stress the joints. This is not to say that the puppy has to be confined. Just use caution and do not allow it to over exert itself. Never walk a Mastiff futher than you can carry it home!!
After about 18 months, the growth rate has decreased and the puppy has just about reached its full stature. A mastiff puppy remains a puppy much longer than most breeds. Even though a Mastiff is already quite large by the time it is 6 months old, it is still growing and maturing rapidly. A Mastiff does not reach it’s full physical or mental maturity until around 3 years of age.You will be surprised how much a Mastiff puppy will drink. Fresh water should be kept available at all times. Drool will accumulate in the bottom of the dish and need to be cleaned out daily.
All puppies love to chew. Mastiffs have very powerful jaws, even as a puppy. Some chew toys that are fine for other breeds are not suitable for your Mastiff. Caution should be used when choosing toys or chew bones as the pup could bite off pieces and swallow them, resulting in intestinal blockage. We recommend large Elk antlers or fresh marrow bones.
Mastiff puppies also have a tendancy to chew or swallow rocks and sticks. They should be watched closely and discouraged from doing so. Crate training is a great way to keep your Mastiff puppy safe when you cannot watch him.
CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY
One of the first things owners teach their puppy is to NOT elimnate in the house. One very effective method-the one used by most breeders and trainers-is crate training. Not only can you house train a puppy using a crate, but when used correctly, the dog naturally learns to look upon it as his den. He will seek out the crate when he wishes to rest undisturbed.
The crate’s success as a house training tool is simple-puppies will not soil their sleeping area if they can possibly avoid it. But remember that a puppy needs time to play. Use the crate when you can’t watch your puppy, but don’t overuse it.
Crates come in many different styles and sizes. You may need to purchase several while your pup is growing, as the final crate will need to be quite large. There are crates available with moveable dividers.
Put the crate in a location close to other family members, to lessen the puppy’s anxieties. Move it from the kitchen or family room to the bedroom at night so your puppy will always feel a part of his new family.
Remove the puppy’s collar before he goes into the crate. Then be prepared for his first experience with crate training-he will probably cry or whine. Offer him a treat and close the door.Leave the room but remain nearby.At the first sign of separation response, such as barking, whining , or howling, intervene with a sharp “NO!” Your puppy should associate the repremand with his actions and stop. It may take four or five tries, but he will eventually settle down.
Once he is quiet,keep him in his crate for 30 to 45 minutes, If he begins to cry, take him outside to relieve himself. When he has accomplished that, praise him, take him back inside and allow him free time outside his crate. If he starts chewing on something other than his toys, respond with a sharp “NO”, take the object away and replace it with a toy. After 15-20 minutes of play time, put him back in his crate for a nap. If he cries, correct him. Because he is learning through association, consistencey should help your puppy accept being in his crate after only a few tries. When your puppy has been quiet for a hour or so, repeat the process.
Be aware that your puppy will need to eliminate directly upon waking and shortly after eating or playing. Also, a very young puppy will not be able to hold his urine all night, so be prepared to take him out during the night.
Put your puppy on a leash immediately after letting him out of the crate. Rush him to the door or carry him if he is small so he can avoid an accident. And be sure he does relieve himself once he’s outside.
SAVING YOUR FURNITURE
The crate is also useful as an aid in curbing destructive behavior, such as uncontrolled chewing. As your puppy matures and proves himself capable of being loose in the house, give him that privilege.
The crate itself cannot stop your puppy’s need to chew when he is teething, so provide him with Elk antlers or raw marrow bones. If he continues to chew beyond the teething stage (about eight months),he is probably just bored, so try to spend more time with him.
By the time he is about 10 months to a year old, he should be able to walk around the house for most of the day once he has been taken outside to relieve himself. He may be mature enough to be trusted all night in the house. But keep his crate set up with the door open anyway. He will be attached to his “den” and will look for it.
TIPS FOR HOUSEBREAKING YOUR PUPPY
Always bear in mind that a dog evacuates his bowels on waking in the morning,after a meal, and about 3 hours after a meal, especially as a puppy.
As soon as he wakes in the morning, and after every nap, take him directly outdoors on a leash and collar to empty his bladder and bowels.
Take him to the same place each time,stay with him and give him 10-15 minutes to perform.
I find that an expression associated with the action is very helpful in the teaching process. You choose your own words-“do your chores” “time for business” “gotta go,hurry up” etc. When the same phrase is repeated over a few days, the pup learns what it is you want of him very quickly. Your puppy is a very intelligent dog and eager to please you.
When he does what you’ve requested of him,heap praise on him and bring him back into the house immediately and give him a little reward treat.
There should be no outdoor play until he has it firmly in his mind that the outdoors is the place to go to relieve himself,and is giving you signals that he needs to go out (and RIGHT NOW!) This may be whining, circling,sniffing at various places or going towards the door. IT’S UP TO YOU TO LEARN TO READ HIS MESSAGES!!!
Remember that you are dealing with a baby with a small bladder, and you should expect to have accidents to clean up until he is about 6 months old. When accidents do happen, DO NOT RUB HIS NOSE IN IT OR HIT HIM! A rolled up newspaper has no value in teaching a dog. You wouldn’t do that to a child or want it done to you. Your pup does have dignity too!
The dog crate will be your most valuble asset in the house-training effort. Dogs are den animals, and he will not want to soil his sleeping area if he can help it. He will whine or bark from the crate when he needs to go out,but he will do that too if he just wants to be with you. This is what we call the “puppy con” and you’ll have to learn to differentiate between them. Ignore the message and you might be cleaning up a mess!
A great way to train puppies to “ring the bell” when they need to go out…
You’ll need a 3’-4’ length of soft rope. Make a loop at one end that will fit over the door knob and tie a great big knobby knot on the other end, so the puppy has something to grab on to. Attach a group of little brass bells-available at the dollar stores-above the knobby knot,so that they tinkle when the rope is shaken, then hang this rope over the door knob of the door going outside,so that it is low enough for the pup to reach.
When you are starting the houetraining, each time you go out the door,reach over and grab the rope so that the bells ring, and say whatever potty words you have chosen. Within a matter of hours or days, the puppy will be ringing the bells on his own.
Excellent internet information resources:
www.greatdanelady.com
www.dogtrainingbasics.com
www.dogfoodadvisor.com
http://www.workingdogs.com/doc0039.htm (article on Ester-C use in large breeds)
A MUST READ AND PRACTICE ARTICLE ABOUT BLOAT!
http://www.bluefrontiers.us/bloat_accupress.html
Dogs of Distinction
802-563-3275 home
802-498-4251 mobile
Mastiff Puppy Raising Tips
Even a small Mastiff is destined to be a large dog. This is something that must be taken into consideration when rearing it. As a puppy, your Mastiff should not be allowed to do anything that you would not wish your full grown Mastiff to do, such as laying on the couch. And because your puppy is going to be such a large dog, it is also a very, very good idea that it receive, at a minimum, basic obedience training. You DO NOT want a 200 lb. dog that won’t listen to you-this can lead to very obvious problems!
Puppy class is a wonderful place to start-the socialization is invaluable. Your dog is going to get A LOT of attention from strangers, human and dog. Occasional visits to a doggie day care are encouraged as well.
Mastiffs grow at such an astonishing rate that it is best NOT to force their growth with puppy food or vitamins. A few great supplements form your puppy are North American Kelp Meal, and NuVet and
NuJoint Plus from NuVet labs. Kelp is an amazing source of minerals, and the Ester-C in the NuJoint is a highly soluble vitamin C supplement that helps protect joints. You can work your puppy from 500mg a day to 2000mg a day. A good quality dog food is all that they require…a mastiff is going to get as large as it is going to be, genetically…allowing them to grow at their own pace will give them a more stable foundation once they get there. Many breeders recommend NOT feeding puppy chow due to the high protein content.We recommend a wheat, corn, and soy free food with protein/fat levels around 25/12. Your puppy has been fed 4Health ADULT food, which is a chicken protien based, high quality food available at Tractor Supply Co. and online. Costco’s Chicken and Vegetable formula is also an excellent choice. Other wonderful foods include Innova, California Naturals, Canidae, etc.
During growth periods your Mastiff puppy is subject to joint injury.You will need to be especially careful during these times to control excessive exercise. A puppy may play at his own rate, but should not be encouraged to take long walks, jump obstacles, orany other exercise that will stress the joints. This is not to say that the puppy has to be confined. Just use caution and do not allow it to over exert itself. Never walk a Mastiff futher than you can carry it home!!
After about 18 months, the growth rate has decreased and the puppy has just about reached its full stature. A mastiff puppy remains a puppy much longer than most breeds. Even though a Mastiff is already quite large by the time it is 6 months old, it is still growing and maturing rapidly. A Mastiff does not reach it’s full physical or mental maturity until around 3 years of age.You will be surprised how much a Mastiff puppy will drink. Fresh water should be kept available at all times. Drool will accumulate in the bottom of the dish and need to be cleaned out daily.
All puppies love to chew. Mastiffs have very powerful jaws, even as a puppy. Some chew toys that are fine for other breeds are not suitable for your Mastiff. Caution should be used when choosing toys or chew bones as the pup could bite off pieces and swallow them, resulting in intestinal blockage. We recommend large Elk antlers or fresh marrow bones.
Mastiff puppies also have a tendancy to chew or swallow rocks and sticks. They should be watched closely and discouraged from doing so. Crate training is a great way to keep your Mastiff puppy safe when you cannot watch him.
CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY
One of the first things owners teach their puppy is to NOT elimnate in the house. One very effective method-the one used by most breeders and trainers-is crate training. Not only can you house train a puppy using a crate, but when used correctly, the dog naturally learns to look upon it as his den. He will seek out the crate when he wishes to rest undisturbed.
The crate’s success as a house training tool is simple-puppies will not soil their sleeping area if they can possibly avoid it. But remember that a puppy needs time to play. Use the crate when you can’t watch your puppy, but don’t overuse it.
Crates come in many different styles and sizes. You may need to purchase several while your pup is growing, as the final crate will need to be quite large. There are crates available with moveable dividers.
Put the crate in a location close to other family members, to lessen the puppy’s anxieties. Move it from the kitchen or family room to the bedroom at night so your puppy will always feel a part of his new family.
Remove the puppy’s collar before he goes into the crate. Then be prepared for his first experience with crate training-he will probably cry or whine. Offer him a treat and close the door.Leave the room but remain nearby.At the first sign of separation response, such as barking, whining , or howling, intervene with a sharp “NO!” Your puppy should associate the repremand with his actions and stop. It may take four or five tries, but he will eventually settle down.
Once he is quiet,keep him in his crate for 30 to 45 minutes, If he begins to cry, take him outside to relieve himself. When he has accomplished that, praise him, take him back inside and allow him free time outside his crate. If he starts chewing on something other than his toys, respond with a sharp “NO”, take the object away and replace it with a toy. After 15-20 minutes of play time, put him back in his crate for a nap. If he cries, correct him. Because he is learning through association, consistencey should help your puppy accept being in his crate after only a few tries. When your puppy has been quiet for a hour or so, repeat the process.
Be aware that your puppy will need to eliminate directly upon waking and shortly after eating or playing. Also, a very young puppy will not be able to hold his urine all night, so be prepared to take him out during the night.
Put your puppy on a leash immediately after letting him out of the crate. Rush him to the door or carry him if he is small so he can avoid an accident. And be sure he does relieve himself once he’s outside.
SAVING YOUR FURNITURE
The crate is also useful as an aid in curbing destructive behavior, such as uncontrolled chewing. As your puppy matures and proves himself capable of being loose in the house, give him that privilege.
The crate itself cannot stop your puppy’s need to chew when he is teething, so provide him with Elk antlers or raw marrow bones. If he continues to chew beyond the teething stage (about eight months),he is probably just bored, so try to spend more time with him.
By the time he is about 10 months to a year old, he should be able to walk around the house for most of the day once he has been taken outside to relieve himself. He may be mature enough to be trusted all night in the house. But keep his crate set up with the door open anyway. He will be attached to his “den” and will look for it.
TIPS FOR HOUSEBREAKING YOUR PUPPY
Always bear in mind that a dog evacuates his bowels on waking in the morning,after a meal, and about 3 hours after a meal, especially as a puppy.
As soon as he wakes in the morning, and after every nap, take him directly outdoors on a leash and collar to empty his bladder and bowels.
Take him to the same place each time,stay with him and give him 10-15 minutes to perform.
I find that an expression associated with the action is very helpful in the teaching process. You choose your own words-“do your chores” “time for business” “gotta go,hurry up” etc. When the same phrase is repeated over a few days, the pup learns what it is you want of him very quickly. Your puppy is a very intelligent dog and eager to please you.
When he does what you’ve requested of him,heap praise on him and bring him back into the house immediately and give him a little reward treat.
There should be no outdoor play until he has it firmly in his mind that the outdoors is the place to go to relieve himself,and is giving you signals that he needs to go out (and RIGHT NOW!) This may be whining, circling,sniffing at various places or going towards the door. IT’S UP TO YOU TO LEARN TO READ HIS MESSAGES!!!
Remember that you are dealing with a baby with a small bladder, and you should expect to have accidents to clean up until he is about 6 months old. When accidents do happen, DO NOT RUB HIS NOSE IN IT OR HIT HIM! A rolled up newspaper has no value in teaching a dog. You wouldn’t do that to a child or want it done to you. Your pup does have dignity too!
The dog crate will be your most valuble asset in the house-training effort. Dogs are den animals, and he will not want to soil his sleeping area if he can help it. He will whine or bark from the crate when he needs to go out,but he will do that too if he just wants to be with you. This is what we call the “puppy con” and you’ll have to learn to differentiate between them. Ignore the message and you might be cleaning up a mess!
A great way to train puppies to “ring the bell” when they need to go out…
You’ll need a 3’-4’ length of soft rope. Make a loop at one end that will fit over the door knob and tie a great big knobby knot on the other end, so the puppy has something to grab on to. Attach a group of little brass bells-available at the dollar stores-above the knobby knot,so that they tinkle when the rope is shaken, then hang this rope over the door knob of the door going outside,so that it is low enough for the pup to reach.
When you are starting the houetraining, each time you go out the door,reach over and grab the rope so that the bells ring, and say whatever potty words you have chosen. Within a matter of hours or days, the puppy will be ringing the bells on his own.
Excellent internet information resources:
www.greatdanelady.com
www.dogtrainingbasics.com
www.dogfoodadvisor.com
http://www.workingdogs.com/doc0039.htm (article on Ester-C use in large breeds)
A MUST READ AND PRACTICE ARTICLE ABOUT BLOAT!
http://www.bluefrontiers.us/bloat_accupress.html